An article posted today on BBC News UK highlights a report by The Children’s Food Trust into what children in British public schools are bringing in as a packed lunch. Using the accounts of teachers and school workers rather than actually go through the lunch boxes of kids, the picture painted by the report was not encouraging. Almost fifty percent of teachers said they had seen a change in pupils’ lunches as household budgets got tighter, while 84.6 percent said they had seen children who were coming to school without enough to eat.
According to the teachers’ personal accounts, some kids were turning up to school with a baggie full of cold chips and nothing else. Looking at the label of popular frozen chip brand McCain’s, a single serving of oven chips equal to 100 grams in weight provides the eater with 138 calories, 4 grams of fat, 2.5 grams of protein and 1.6 grams of fiber. A bag weighing just over 900 grams costs £2.00 at Tesco Online, so a single serve will cost about 25 pence. For a family of five trying to subsist on unemployment benefits or a single minimum wage earning parent, 25 pence per lunch might just be too good to resist, despite the consequences on a child’s health and well being. After all, 25 pence only covers about a third of the price of an apple. If given the choice between a bag of chips or a third of an apple, I know what I would choose if I was a hungry seven year old.
Food has always been the mark of poverty and lavish wealth. On the one hand, we associate feasting and gluttonous abandon with the very richest of our society, but we also associate the ability to eat from the best producers and of the best quality with the upper echelons as well. Any one can tell you that Whole Foods really does have the best smoked salmon on offer in a high street chain, but these exclamations of admiration are often quickly followed with a caveat: “But I can’t afford to eat there!” Rather, if you are a student like me, you can afford to buy basic groceries, never organic, and rely on a handy halal cart or bagel shop to see you through the day on a budget. But even students have it easy. If you are an individual who is struggling through their week with only food stamps and unemployment checks to get them to the week’s end, then even this life style is mostly denied to you.
Instead, you can try and shop the bargains at your local discount store and scrimp by with your food stamps. But believe me, eating healthily and food stamps are nigh on anathema to each other. Say your food stamp budget for a week is $68.88, and you have a family of four to feed. That is $17.22 per person per week. That puts a $5 street corner halal cart dinner immediately out of your price range. A Starbucks coffee would bring the budget down to just below $15, or the cost of a large carton of milk, a box of eggs and a loaf of bread. If you resist the coffee, as surely you must, then $17.22 per week gives a person $2.46 per day to live on. There are sports drinks that cost more than this. Even simple groceries like a large can of tomatoes costs on average $2.99.
When living in a situation where all of these factors, not to mention how to pay the rent, utilities, do the laundry, get your kid to school, keep them in clothing, pay for medicines when they are needed and all of the other little expenses like toothpaste, shower gel and toilet roll, the level of stress an individual comes under is often blinding. I feel so irritated when I see people who have never experienced the realities of living day in and day out on this kind of meager money bragging about their week or month spent “surviving” on food stamps. Often, the writer will crow about how well they did, managing to develop some excellent “cheap and cheerful” dahl recipes along the way. Now, I am not saying it is impossible to live on food stamps or benefits and eat healthily. It is possible, but it is also exhausting, time consuming, and takes a level of invention and resourcefulness that I can’t muster after a long day at work.
The pressure of this socio-economic context is overwhelming for most people. When presented with the choice of feeding your child a large plate of processed, frozen, or take away food, or a tiny plate of prohibitively expensive salad greens, there is only one logical choice. Parents and carers don’t want the added concern of an angry and hungry child piled on top of their own day-to-day struggles.
Contributing to this trend is the fact that in many inner cities, there just isn’t any other option but to eat cheap fast food for people who cannot afford to do their grocery shopping in small delis or high-end grocery stores. Instead, there is a planned food desert, restricting people to food choices that merely feed their unhealthiness, and their depressed social context. As a society we associate the people that eat regularly at fast food stations either as poor or as unhealthy. Often, the two stereotypes go hand in hand, the one affirming the other. And institutionally, it may well be doing so. With an unhealthy diet comes less psychological motivation for change, as it can lead to comfort eating habits and a lack of nutrition often results in a physiological effect on our bodies. At the same time, an unhealthy diet often feeds some of the largest urban killers in the country, such as obesity, diabetes, hypertension and chronic kidney disease. In Mott Haven and Hunts Point in the Bronx, one out of every six people has diabetes. Almost half live below the poverty line. The correlation between diet, health and economic status in such a stark situation as this cannot be ignored.
Studies such as the Children’s Food Trust highlight the problem, and by turning the focus on the accounts of teachers, it gives a legitimacy to the statistics we have learned as a public to brush off as yet another meaningless number. School is supposed to act as a refuge for children, a place where even if they don’t want to or don’t have the option of eating healthily at home they can do so within the safety of the school house. What we don’t need are more articles telling people “how to survive” on less than $3 a day and be vegan. We need to put in the infrastructural changes that take the pressure off the parents and the kids. Good food should not come with the stigma of the benefit hand out: the government needs to give children the opportunity to eat well, and without judgement, if it wants to change their attitudes to food and alleviate the pressure of poverty for them and for their cash-strapped parents’ sake.